In Ushuaia, the smell of raw earth mingles with the salty scent of the sea. Like many outposts, it has a raw, youthful energy - an undercurrent of opportunity under harsh conditions.The capital of Argentina's Tierre del Fuego, South Atlantic Islands and Argentine Antarctic Province (how's that for a political statement!), it is considered the southern-most city in the world. It hugs a small cove on the Beagle Channel, half-way between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and grasps its way up the hillside towards the regal Martial range.
The townsite is dominated by a massive prison - built at the turn of the last century to stake Argentina's claim to her southern extremity; built by the prisoners themselves - unfortunate souls judged the most expendable or most dangerous, but also hardy enough to plant the seeds for a new city. Like England's Australia and France's New Caledonia, there is pride in criminal origins.
Today the primary industry appears to be Tourism. Traveller's fly in to check 'Tierra del Fuego' off of their bucket list, or stop by on cruises to the Antarctic. They spend a day on excursions - to the National Park, a boat trip to see the penguin, sea lion and gannet colonies, or to ride the 'prisoner's train'. Most visit the prison museum, but few take the time to wander the back streets of the small city.
In my mind, Ushuaia's most interesting features are the little houses that house its permanent population. Sheathed in corregated iron, or less often raw pine bark, they are compact and colourful.Picket fences and gingerbread embellishments are common. Dormers, rose windows and crazy colour combinations all add creative touches that speak of pride of place.
It is interesting that bleaker landscapes often spur a more colourful built environment. I noticed this for the first time in Rajisthan India - as we drove further into the desert, clothing and turbans in particular, took on brighter hues.
The other great surpise was the creativity and quality of the food in Ushuaia's little restaurants. Witness Black Hake on a bed of crushed Patagonian tomatoes and olive oil, with Spinach xxx (Kalma Resto). There's an exceptional Chilean restaurant called Chiko where I enjoyed Trout stuffed with King Crab.
My last evening in town, I enjoyed a happy, spirited dinner with the exceptional young Swiss / French couple I had gone horseback riding with in Bariloche. They drove me up the side of the mountain to Chez Manu where we enjoyed the lights of the city below, and the best French/Patagonian meal I could have imagined.
The other great surpise was the creativity and quality of the food in Ushuaia's little restaurants. Witness Black Hake on a bed of crushed Patagonian tomatoes and olive oil, with Spinach xxx (Kalma Resto). There's an exceptional Chilean restaurant called Chiko where I enjoyed Trout stuffed with King Crab.
My last evening in town, I enjoyed a happy, spirited dinner with the exceptional young Swiss / French couple I had gone horseback riding with in Bariloche. They drove me up the side of the mountain to Chez Manu where we enjoyed the lights of the city below, and the best French/Patagonian meal I could have imagined.
Colour, great food and conviviality at the end of the world.
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