And then I landed in Montevideo.
A 3-hour ferry trip from Buenos Aires, Uruguay’s compact capital sits on a promontory just inside the Rio de la Plata estuary. Originally a Spanish fort established to counteract the Portuguese settlement up-stream at Colonia del Sacramento, the city has always existed in the shadow of Argentina.
This is immediately visible in the built city – glorious wedding cake buildings from the late 1800s, noble neo-Beaux Arts homes and lyrical deco buildings from the 1920s, proud “mid-century modern” office towers. A beef-based economy built a prosperous early 20th century city. 
But all of this came to a crashing halt with economic decline in the early 60s and the dictatorship starting in the late ‘60s. The city has been in a cryogenic deep freeze since then. The Old City has the same feeling of melting grandeur you would sense in Havana.
But there are signs of renewal in lovingly restored art cafes and the occasional boutique. 
In the Centro, sidewalk cafes lead to leafy squares full of artisan booths. Handsome,
dark-haired men wear suits with white shirts, women wear tailored skirts and teens use belts. Everyone walks at a more measured pace.There’s a feeling of quiet innocence about Montevideo. There are no bars on shop windows. Two young ceremonial guards are the only security at the presidential office building. Children play tag unsupervised on the tree-shaded sidewalks. With every cross street open to the sea, 5 blocks from the core, inviting breezes cool the streets.
I spend the days walking the streets and soaking in the freshness. In the evening, I attend the venerable ‘Teatro Solis’, enjoying a Spanish version of Moliere’s ‘The Imaginary Invalid’ – paying the equivalent of $4.50 for a front Orchestra seat. On the way out of town, I drive by white sand beaches, along an avenue lined with glossy modern apartment towers - more Miami than Havana. This is the start of an almost unbroken string of ocean-front beaches that stretch almost 300 km north to the Brazilian border.
After only a short stay, I’m in love with Montevideo, and in love with the adventure of travel all over again.
- 30 -
