The city of Split is one of the most fascinating of the Dalmatian coast. It is EU-member Croatia's second largest city and a bustling modern hub. But two millennia of history are meshed into its architecture.
The first significant construction on the site was Roman Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace - a monumental quadrangle of white stone set in a scenic harbour backed by a steep ridge of mountains.
The walls of his palace still encircle the old town - the graceful arches of his promenades are still visible in the stone work, although later generations have built homes, shops, churches and a synagogue into the spaces behind - punching holes for new windows, doors and even air conditioning units.
The centre of the old town is Diocletian's Peristil - a beautiful public space surrounded by red granite columns brought from the Egyptian temples of Luxor. A cafe by that name now serves drinks on red cushions and at night, music encourages revelers to dance where a Roman emperor once entertained.
Diocletian's palace vestibule closes off one end of the small square; another is the entrance to what was once his Mausoleum.
The octagonal domed structure dominated the Palace and still does. However, after the fall of the Roman Empire, it was converted into the Cathedral of St. Dominus - dedicated to a martyr put to death by the Christian-hating emperor.
The renaissance bell-tower took 300 years to complete and now dominates the town, proudly declaring the strong Venetian influence along this strategic coast.
The compact, ornate interior, makes use of Roman structural elements, including pieces of Diocletian's sarcophagus re-purposed as a pulpit. One more element of historical irony.
Underneath the entire city - a magnificent feat of Roman engineering. The cellars, constructed of massive piers of stone, supporting soaring arches, leveled the floor for Diocletian's palace and echoed the floor plan above.
In the 2,000 years since the emperor's death, the structures above were altered, demolished and rebuilt but the cellars retained their design. Each generation simply punched holes in the floors of their dwellings and dropped garbage and sewage into the void below, slowly filling them up - an archaeological treasure trove when excavated in the early 90s.
The Venetians left their mark on the city with lovely palaces and open squares. All re-purposed for modern life in a modern city.
The many layers of Split's history make it a fascinating stop on a tour of Croatia's Dalmatian Coast. But is is also the city's stunning location that make it even more inviting: crystal clear water, pebbly beaches in picturesque coves, and lots of opportunities to hike in the hillsides nearby.
And Split is the embarkation point for further adventures on the stunning islands of Hvar, Korcula and Vis.
- 30 -
