On the dry plains at the foot of the mighty Andes, Mendoza has built a world-renowned wine industry. Crystal clean melt water from the mountain snows is channelled across the desert and fed to vines with eye-dropper accuracy. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are coaxed from the rocky soil on vineyards that range from 900 meters above sea level to a lung-straining 1800 meters.Warm, dry, sunny days increase sugar levels and eliminate fungus and bugs. Cool nights optimize acidity levels. The ancient volcanic soils impart warm, spicy, earthy aromas.
The bodegas (wineries) – ranging from small family holdings to huge multi-national corporations – use relatively inexpensive local labour to hand-pick the grapes and sophisticated European and Argentine expertise to produce consistently high quality wines. With a well-deserved international reputation, the Mendoza region produces 70% of Argentina’s wine.
So of course the visitor to Mendoza must do the rounds. With over 600 wineries operating in the region, a guide/driver is the safest approach.
The son of our B&B’s owner runs tours and the four of us signed up for a whirlwind visit to 4 establishments: Carinae, Alta Vista, Ruca Malen and Santo Domingo. Ranging from world-wide exporters with extensive subterranean cellars to a tiny one-family operation that supplies a few local restaurants, the bodegas we visited gave us a terrific overview of the Mendoza wine industry.
The highlight was a 5-course lunch, paired with 6 wines, in a stunning dining pavilion with a panoramic view of the vineyards and the snow-capped Andes. 
Light sparkling wine, floral and fruity whites, full bodied reds were paired with several delicate appetizers, with a tender slab of red meat and grilled vegetables, with a pretty little dessert.
The wineries get most of the attention, but the town of Mendoza is alluring on its own. Despite its desert location, it is a city of leafy green squares, gushing fountains, impressive monuments and terrific restaurants.
In the evenings, its pedestrian malls and broad sidewalks bustle with activity. Shops are full of inexpensive local leather products. We’re told there’s a lively nightlife as well, but after tasting 15 or 16 wines in one day, we were unlikely to experience it personally.
It would be easy to spend several days exploring the town and wineries, but there was one more expedition we had to undertake - a trek into the highest peaks of the Andes - just a few hours to the east...
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* Vines, visit, meat and fountain photos by Dad.
