In the dappled shade of the manicured trees, the free-wheeling strains of Stephan Grappelli jazz tumbles over a small crowd. Relieved to be out of the white, July sunlight, they sit back in green metal chairs, their tapping feet raising small clouds of white dust.
I find pockets of tranquility as well: a quiet side street, and a sandwich bar with a few sidewalk tables; the sanctuary of La Madeleine, where the organist is practicing for this evening's recital of Mozart's Requiem; the
green refuges around the Tour St. Jacques and in the courtyard of the Palais Royal; the startling exhibit of Evard Munch's journey from realist landscape painter to "The Scream" at the oddly named Pinacotheque; the quiet corner of a Quai where a young couple share earbuds and dance a languid tango to their own private music.
It is the quiet corners of Paris that I prefer, the green spaces, smaller museums and narrow back streets that give me at least the momentary impression that I am Parisian and that this infinitely beautiful city, this epitome of sophisticated urban design, is mine. That I belong here.
Place St. Jean is a formal, tranquil Parisian park proudly tucked between the eastern tip of the Ile de la Cite and the impressive gothic tracery of Notre Dame. After a day of wandering the beautiful streets of the Right Bank, I've paused in this peaceful little space to listen to a relaxed, young quartet of musicians entertain an eclectic audience of tourists and Parisians. Around me, slim young lovers in skinny black jeans, lean against a plane tree linking fingers and swaying in unison to the music;
corpulent tourists in colourful shorts try to discretely select camera angles without bloking the views of others; a little boy, a blond putti in blue, tears around the dusty white court looking for sticks to use as swords; older women in conservative skirts and tailored jackets, their hair tinted and coiffed in a proper style, sit with their handbags on their laps and lean in to exchange observations.
It's a perfect end to a meandering day. My sole objective had been to watch Paris at play on a warm July Saturday. And there was so much to see. The courtyards of the Louvre and the Tuilleries saturated with camera-happy crowds from around the world; the quais of the Seine remodelled as "Paris Plages", teeming with strolling crowds, watching and being watched by others stretched out in imaginary-vacation mode on wooden beach chairs on truck dumped sand beneath boxed palm trees; shoppers laden with their afternoon spoils squeezing by each other along the broad sidewalks of the Rue St. Honore and Boulevard de la Madeleine.